Tuesday 27 October 2015

Johannesburg

So far, I had only been to Johannesburg  to switch planes en route to Cape Town or a safari destination in South Africa or Botswana. So I had no expectations when we flew to Johannesburg for a conference this spring except the usual general reluctance to go to a city of violence, high up on the list of crime statistics. When I had first been to South Africa, to Cape Town in 2001, I felt the tension between its people quite vividly. Even hotel rooms were not safe - though staying in a really nice 5* place, things were taken from the room. Nothing valuable in money, but my young son's "Schmusekissen" sleeping pillow that he always travelled with  ... I saw the chambermaid in the hallway, carrying my sons pillow with the little teddy bears on it and didn't think about it then. I did not react - thought, maybe she is going to clean or repair it, it was quite frayed at the corners and stained. No - the pillow did not come back... I am sure, the pillow was given to a small child as a present and in need of it - so when I explained to my son, he did not take it too hard. But in what kind of situation must someone be  to take the sleeping pillow of a small child?     

I was therefore apprehensive to go to Johannesburg - however, I was proven wrong. Friendly faces everywhere! The Johannesburg people seem to have gained much pride in their city, pride in their country and its achievements . And what the South African people have achieved is nothing short of a miracle - they are on a very long road to a peaceful and stable country and  still have to avoid and find a way out of the trap of corruption and cronyism, to an inclusive society for the "rainbow" country,  but there is every reason to be confident.

Visiting the Hector Petersen-Museum to commemorate the Soweto Uprising of June 16, 1976.




Mandela's and Gandhi's prison cell: 





no hiding





The city reminded me very much of Berlin. The two cities have much in common,  cities that after decades of division are coming back to life. Photographically interesting, Joburg has like Berlin many decrepid derelict abandoned buildings and lots of graffiti. The vibrancy of a young city and people coming back in can be felt on every corner.








Johannesburg lies on one side of a huge gold reef, and was founded as a goldminers' city in 1886. 




There seems to be plenty left in the mine dumps. 

Soweto, nowadays part of Johannesburg, is a city of its own - built to house the miners.  Soweto has three parts to it, an uptown middle-class area,




the middle town with the old miners' shacks,




and lower Soweto which comes closest to the image of a slum.




Johannesburg still has that fleeting unstable atmosphere, typical of cities with no long and stable history and founded for a single purpose. 

We visited an NGO that looks after HIV/Aids orphans. Some families here consist of only children, no parents, grannies, aunts or uncles left. Older siblings look after their younger family members, do the household chores, the cooking, cleaning, and go to school! Sometimes they themselves are only 10 years old when they accept such responsibilities. The NGO provides support to over 300 children, assistance with applications etc and food for these crippled families. 









Aids/HIV  is still very prevalent , estimates go up to 20 % of the adult population of South Africa. Even Nelson Mandela lost a son to HIV/Aids.  

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