Monday 28 August 2017

Tanzanian Safari : The Great Migration and a Crossing (II)


We had seen a safe crossing through the Mara river of a huge herd of wildebeest and zebra with thousands of animals on our first day in the area. 
Most people, however,  yearn for the more gruesome pictures of the crossings, that make it into the magazines and films: of crocodiles preying on a stumbling wildebeest in the water, of broken limbs and orphaned wildebeest babies. They try to glimpse some of nature's less happy moments and wonder why they come back to camp in the evening a little subdued  ... watching and hearing the real thing happening a few meters away is very different from looking at pictures in wildlife books and watching TV documentaries from the comfort of a sofa. 

Those crueller aspects of the Great Migration shone up unexpectedly one evening when we were having a nice relaxing sun downer on the river bank over the peacefully flowing river. Or so we thought ... 



Suddenly, I heard a loud "Mooh!", a splashing noise, saw something fly through the air. I ran back to the car to grab my camera which I had left behind as it was getting dark already, set focus on the far side of the river bank and watched the drama unfold. Most of the action was happening under water or in a wild misty spray with occasional gruesome images popping up like in a horror movie.

The following pictures are high-ISO and a bit noisy as I needed a fast shutter-speed.  







Several crocs fought about the wildebeest to tear it apart. Eating for them is an exercise in team work, as their teeth are not made for chewing but for tearing only. The bits are swallowed whole.



While tearing at the prey, crocs make a rolling motion called the "death roll" which you can see in the next pictures when their white bellies come up. They use this motion to twist off pieces because their jaws are not made for cutting and shearing. 





that's the stomach.


Another dramatic spectacle with a huge massacre of dead wildebeest we found the next day a bit downstream. 
Here wildebeest had tried to cross the river where the bank on the far side was too steep. They could not get back on land and many did not survive the stampede. The bodies were washed ashore where the river was shallow and they were creating a blockade, where a cloud of vultures was circling over. 





A furious hippo came along trying to push his way through the dead bodies. He had not realized what had happened and that all these animals were dead. He started to threaten showing his teeth and even took one whole wildebeest carcass in his huge mouth, shoving through the carnage and making way, obviously angry that his river was thus polluted. 







Out of my Way! 





A few days later heavy rainfall washed the river clean and all the debris down to Lake Victoria. Which by the way provides drinking water for all surrounding countries and - with the river Nile passing through - even up as far as Egypt. 
In spite of all these victims and their often quite stupid suicidal behaviour, wildebeest are a very successful animal species in numbers. Not many of their offspring are lost and their numbers in Serengeti exceed 1.3 mio animals.  




Here I have produced some abstracts from panning exercides inspired by timeless cave drawings.










Thursday 24 August 2017

Tanzanian Safari : The Great Migration and a Crossing (I)



The main attraction of a photo safari in Tanzania in August is witnessing the Great Migration and particularly a crossing of the Mara river. 
Huge herds of wildebeest and zebra gather along the banks of the river looking for a good spot to cross and feed on the other side where the grass is greener.
  


They follow their instincts and go north to Kenya and the Masai Mara. Wildebeest can "smell" the rain and will go where the rains provide for new soft and sweet green grasses. 







 their side stripes look like "fake" manes


The crossings are spectacular to watch. We had been waiting for several hours as we watched the herds gather from all directions. More and more wildebeest were joining the others in large treks.


 Panorama of the Mara river with wildebeest gathering on one side just before the crossing


Suddenly the first animal entered the water. Once a courageous beast starts to cross the river, the others will follow with loud "moohs", first in a very orderly fashion, then more chaotic as more and more animals try to join. 









riding  sidesaddle ?  someone tries to hitch a ride into the water... 
















We made it! 


We watched several crossings and were glad to see that all animals made it over apparently with no broken limbs or crocodiles waiting in the water. 
They were busy elsewhere.


all quiet and well fed

Thursday 17 August 2017

Tanzania Safari : Tarangire National Park - Elephant Families




Tarangire National Park is famous for its huge elephant population. It is amazing and humbling to observe these large mostly peaceful and slow-moving animals in their day-to-day-lives and their family interactions which seem so emotional and similar to ours. 



Here are a series of photos that I took during several quiet hours of watching these large matriarchal families who went about their business undisturbed and unconcerned about my photography. 

A large group of elephants went down to the Tarangire river from the bank on the other side where they had been grazing. They bathed, played in the water and then crossed the river to come up on our side where we were watching.  A large female with two kids of different ages went deep into the water, the two young ones nearly submerged, their trunks up in the air like snorkels. 







But what is this? There is a third child  - a tiny elephant, who can barely stretch his trunk to the surface! He must have walked or swum alongside his mum completely underwater. 






 Mum is helping him through the deep water. 






The whole group stayed in this area to dry, play, scratch, dust their backs.... 




These two young males seemed to play some sort of ritualized "nose wrestling" pushing each other to and fro and moving the right leg to the front and back.


These two were cuddling. 


 Is this a kiss or is she telling him some secret ?



...something got in her eye....

Now it is his turn to fondle her behind her ears...



this little one likes some ear scratching, too ...


 the older sibling seems quite possessive ... 

...not so fast ... 


.. a new type of knot?

This one played some "noseball" for a while by himself, picking up stones and throwing them in different directions.







He chases birds ...


... and another one! 


Scratching...
















This huge female had a tiny baby that hardly seemed to know how to find the milk bar, searching with its trunk underneath the mother. 








Suddenly we heard a dark and very loud rumbling noise that I had never heard before. It came from another female as she came quickly running towards us from quite a distance. The very deep low-frequency noise seemed to come out of her belly. She hurried past our car and towards the mother with the tiny baby - who turned slowly around, raised her trunk in greeting and replied in the same noise. The newcomer slowed down, stretched her trunk to fondle the little baby and very carefully manouvered her large body alongside the mother with careful steps and lots of emotional exclamations.  To us the explanation for this behaviour seemed obvious - she had possibly not seen the baby yet and was congratulating the mother on her new child!






Another baby was bored and tried to wake up his companion to play: 







...and once more...





finally he woke up! 

"Younger siblings can be a nuisance!"



The closest and most unusual encounter for us was a single male elephant who came to camp one night, when we were sitting around the fire before dinner. It was pitch-dark, we only heard the breaking branches and rustling leaves.  He was a gourmet, apparently liked an Albizia tree in flower growing behind the bar and started shaking it. The camp manager got a torchlight - they knew this guy. Apparently he comes occasionally on quiet evenings, when there are not too many guests around the fire.



He stayed until late, did no damage and was gone by breakfast.